New Look 6093 and making a good dent in the fabric stash

One of the great things about teaching sewing classes is when a student picks a pattern I've been meaning to work out - I always get to joke that they're my guinea pig!

One of the kids in my summer sewing classes picked New Look 6093, a dress that's been sitting in my to-do list for a while. And since I got a twelve year old to work out the kinks for me first, I had no excuse not to get going!

The pattern website says it's a '1940s inspired' dress, but the bias godets and floaty sleeves always seemed much more 1930s to me. I wanted to nudge it a little further in that direction, so I made a few alterations before I cut it out.

I purposefully cut it a size up from what I'd normally do (I'd have even gone further, but it was the largest size in the pattern envelope. Oops?) I was aiming for a more floaty, unfitted early 30s silhouette, rather than the more fitted later style. So the first thing to do what to add more fullness to the godets, which seamed a little skimpy to me.

I also decided to cut the godets as one piece, which you see a lot more in period. The pattern obviously added a side seam to make sewing and fitting easier, but I like the look of the godets as once piece. So I overlapped the side seam by 5/8" and flared it out at the bottom. I then slashed and spread to add more fullness at the bottom.

You can see from the pattern pieces that there was originally supposed to be some shaping on that side seam, but like I said, I'm going for a more unfitted look so I didn't feel worried about taking that shaping out.

I also cut the centre back piece on the fold, removing the shaping on the back seam. With the extra room I can just slip the dress over my head and not worry about a zipper.

For another vintage touch, I decided to add tucks instead of gathers for the fullness over the bust and sleeve head. The bustline seam I then finished with self-fabric bias strips.

The same tucks and bias finish for the sleeve, with a french seam on the shoulder.

As always, mirror selfies and looking like a dork. Still, this dress is coming together quickly and I'm pretty happy with it! Tomorrow adding the godets and finishing the neckline!