Some retro-cool blue jeans

So here's the thing - I hate shopping for pants.

I am not shape that is particularly marketed for in the shops. I'm 5'1", I've got big hips and a small waist, and I'm incredibly high waisted. Those perfect set of high-waisted pants have always eluded me. I've known for a while this is something Imma have to take on myself.

I went to a great pant fitting workshop this past fall, and left with a custom pant block for myself. And my first project with it just has to be that great pair of high waisted jeans I've wanted.

I'm going fairly simple with these, since I've never made a pair of jeans before. Rather than your typical 5-pocket styling, I'm doing basic darted trousers with patch pockets.

Here's how I drafted the pockets -

 I started by taping my pants pattern to the table. Normally I'd be using a pattern block cut out in hard paper, but I haven't had a chance yet. This method can also work for commercial tissue patterns.

I then taped a new piece of tissue on top of the pant block, and traced out a few basic lines.

A good way to work out the size of your pocket is just to use your own hand as a guide. I picked a size I liked and drew the pocket shape out. I transferred a few of the balance lines from my pattern block onto the pocket pattern so that the lines of the pocket could be perfectly straight. The far edge of the pocket is parallel to the grainline of the pants, and the bottom is parallel to the crotch line.

As you can see I also traced out the dart. I don't want a dart on my pocket pattern, so I'm going to be moving that fullness into the pocket opening.

 I cut out the pocket pattern piece, and draw a line from the bottom of the dart to the pocket opening. I cut along this line, and also cut out the centre of the dart. Then I just need to tape the dart closed, and transfer that fullness to the pocket opening. As youc an see at this point I also taped the pocket pattern onto the table.

 That's because my next step is to trace out the pocket again, and blending out the curve on the pocket opening. I then I add seam allowance, and bingo! New pocket pattern.

Adding this fullness to the pocket opening can sometimes cause the pocket to gape, so I'm going to run an ease stitch along the opening and make sure to reenforce it with interfacing.

The other little fancy touch I'm adding is to bind my side seams in this cherry-print ribbon. I'm aiming for a pair of full-length trousers that I can cuff to make into pedal pushers, and I think the ribbon will be very cute peaking out the bottom.

Alas the siren call of dishes that needed doing pulled me away. Next time - adding a side seam zipper and attaching the pockets.